Gothic Tales #2: Victorian roots or why does gothic fashion refer to 19th-century fashion?
Victorian fashion, with its severe corsets, layers, lace, and velvet, was a form of theater and statement in itself. Gothic heightened this drama by removing pastels and replacing them with ubiquitous black, which in the 19th century was mainly reserved for mourning and evening outings. It was the Victorian cult of mourning, which lasted for years and required the wearing of ornate black clothing, that provided Gothic fashion with its key color and material palette.
Key elements of Victorian fashion were adapted to the Gothic aesthetic:
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Corset: In the Victorian era, it symbolized convention and female subjugation. In the Gothic era, it is worn as a seductive and figure-enhancing element, often as an addition to a Gothic blouse or a Gothic dress, regaining its power.
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Lace and Velvet: Luxurious and dramatic materials. Lace, Gothic blouses and velvet Gothic dresses or skirts are a direct reference to Victorian elegance.
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Designs: Gothic midi dress with ruffles, a high collar, puffed sleeves – all this draws from the 19th century, but is reinterpreted with a darker spirit.
Besides aesthetics, philosophy is important. The Victorian era was a time of dark Gothic literature (Dracula, Frankenstein), a fascination with death, spiritualism, and the occult. This dark romanticism perfectly corresponded with the rebellion and melancholy that accompanied the birth of the Gothic subculture in the 1970s and 1980s. Gothic inherited this cult of mystery, thanks to which clothing became a vehicle for deeper, metaphysical meanings.
Victorian Fascination with Death as an Impulse for Gothic Fashion
One of the strongest, and at the same time most macabre, influences of the Victorian era on Gothic fashion is its obsession with death and mourning. Long, rigid rules regarding mourning attire, particularly after the death of Prince Albert, meant that black dominated wardrobes, becoming the color of elegance and drama. In the Gothic subculture, black was adopted as the primary color, but its meaning expanded: it symbolizes rebellion, mystery, melancholy, and a rejection of garish consumerism.
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Black as a symbol of mourning and elegance: Victorian mourning required the wearing of black for years. Gothic adopted this code: Gothic dresses and coats are intentionally long and black, reflecting this cultural code. It is a visual protest against superficiality, symbolizing a constant reflection on the darker aspects of life.
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Mourning Fabric: Velvet, velour, crepe, and lace were key materials in Victorian mourning. They were adopted by Gothic fashion as the essence of luxury and darkness. Gothic dress or skirt made of velvet with lace inserts is a direct nod to 19th-century widows.
Corset and Lace: From Convention to Liberation
Corset and lace are the quintessence of 19th-century femininity and are an indispensable element of Gothic fashion.
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Corset as a foundation of the silhouette: In the Victorian era, the corset was a tool of social control, shaping the female figure to the desired hourglass ideal. Gothic recontextualized this element. The Gothic corset is worn over a Gothic blouse or Gothic top, becoming an empowering and fetishizing element. It is a predatory element that expresses strength and self-confidence, reversing its original, oppressive meaning.
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Lace as a sign of status and sophistication: Victorian lace was expensive and symbolized status. In Gothic, lace adds texture, sensuality, and romanticism to the look. It is used in Gothic dresses, the cuffs of Gothic blouses, and as inserts in Gothic mini skirts, softening the harshness of black and adding ethereal elegance.
Victorian Gothic Literature and Its Ideological Influence
Gothic is primarily a philosophical subculture, and its literary roots lie in 19th-century horror literature and Romanticism.
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Bram Stoker and Mary Shelley: Novels such as "Dracula," "Frankenstein," and "The Strange Case of Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde" They explored themes of darkness, mystery, the duality of human nature, and rebellion against science/religion. They provided the Gothic with its archetypes: the vampire (a symbol of dark elegance) and the monster (a symbol of social rejection). This fascination translated into clothing.
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Victorian Romanticism: Melancholy, a love of nature, and an interest in ruins are hallmarks of 19th-century Romanticism. Gothic embraced this aesthetic of sadness and beauty in transience.
Gothic Dresses and Blouses: A Modern Interpretation of a Classic
Contemporary Gothic fashion skillfully combines Victorian styles with modern elements that make them suitable for everyday wear.
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Gothic Midi Dress: This mid-calf length style is the perfect compromise between the drama of a Victorian maxi dress and the functionality of casual Gothic fashion. A midi gothic dress often features Victorian features: puffed sleeves, ruffles, mesh or lace inserts.
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Gothic Top and Blouse: Instead of full corsets and stiff petticoats, gothic offers a lighter yet stylish option. Gothic tops can have corset lacing (like lacings) without the need for a full corset. A Gothic blouse with a high collar, lace cuffs, or Victorian ruffles is perfect for wearing with a Gothic skirt or pants in a modern cut.
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Gothic sweatshirt: Although Gothic sweatshirt is a typical 20th/21st century item, it often features Victorian accents such as velvet inserts, lace on the hood, or a Gothic cut of the sleeves that imitates puffed sleeves. This is a perfect example of how Gothic combines historical aesthetics with comfort.
The references to the 19th century in Gothic fashion are not accidental. It is a deliberate move intended to emphasize dark elegance and depth. Gothic inherited a whole spectrum of cultural and visual codes: